Please Don't Eat the Royal Swans

Gentlefolk, you may feel your culinary ambitions are boundless, but the law takes a dim view of you harvesting feathered aristocracy for supper. In England and Wales a curious remnant of medieval property law survives: unmarked mute swans on open waters are the Crown's property. This is not a quaint suggestion; it is an historical right that the Crown still exercises, chiefly by the annual ritual of Swan Upping, when teams punt up and down the river to count, examine and mark the birds.

Before you picture Majesty in a chef's hat, allow me to clarify: Swan Upping is now largely a conservationminded census conducted with great ceremony. The two ancient livery companies, the Vintners and the Dyers, also possess historical rights to swans on certain stretches of the Thames, which is a detail that pleases historians and mildly alarms anyone attempting riverbank poaching. Modern wildlife protection statutes further make it an offence to kill or injure mute swans, so the combined effect is both ceremonially pompous and inconvenient for wouldbe gastronomes.

Majestic swans glide in a stylized blue and orange watercolor realm signifying crown rights.

The absurdity, of course, is delicious. We live in an age of online banking, satellite navigation and apps that will tell you how to water a cactus, yet somewhere in the statute books is the blunt, genteel sentence: these white birds belong to the sovereign. The ceremony itself is a national tableau of punt poles, measured beaks and genteel officialdom - like a civil service inspection, but with more feathers and less paperwork.

If you ever find yourself tempted to separate a swan from its dignity, consider the spectacle you will cause: a flotilla of officials gliding towards you with measuring tapes and reprimands, while you attempt to explain that you thought "royal" was merely a flavour. It is best for all parties - and for your dinnerware - that swans remain princely, unroasted and legally awkward.

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